Holly Care Tips

Types of Holly:

Compacta: 2-3' x 2-3'
Nelly R Stevens: 15-25' x 10-15'

Skypencil: 3-5' x 6'
Dwarf Youpon Holly: 10-12" x 6-8'

Plant in partial to full sun, avoiding shaded or understory areas. Prefers well-drained, moist, fertile soil. Winterberry & blue hollies don’t respond well to shearing, so prune by hand once a year to manage long branches. Other hollies require minimal pruning but tolerate heavy cuts for formal hedges or topiaries. Prune in spring to control size or remove old branches for optimal berry production. Fertilize in spring & early fall with fertilizer for acid-loving plants & follow fertilizer label. Holly bushes prefer soil with a pH between 5.0-6.0, & certain fertilizers can help acidify the soil while feeding the plants.

When planting keep your soil type in mind if your soil needs to be amended do so. When planting make sure the root ball is above level ground by 2 inches to prevent rot root or fungus.

Fertilizing:

The best times to fertilize holly are in spring & fall. Fertilize in spring when new growth starts, and again in fall once growth has stopped. Nitrogen promotes vibrant leaves, phosphorus strengthens roots, and potassium supports overall health. A balanced NPK ratio like 10-10-10 is ideal, along with micronutrients like iron and magnesium.

Pruning:

For evergreen hollies, prune in early summer to avoid damaging new growth from cool temperatures. Pruning may result in fewer berries on female hollies, as it removes most of the summer flowers that turn into winter fruit.

Sprayer Use:

• A pump-up sprayer is recommended.
• Avoid leaving chemicals in the sprayer after use.

Seasonal Adjustments:

• Reduce spraying during hot summer months following chemical instructions.

Watering Systems:

• Avoid overhead watering to minimize fungal leaf issues.
• Use drip irrigation as the best method for watering.

Black Root Rot

Identify: Water mold fungi like Phytophthora cinnamomi cause root rot in hollies planted in poorly drained or overly wet areas. Planting too deep or over-mulching can also contribute. Early symptoms include yellowing leaves, early leaf drop, slow growth, and twig dieback. As the disease progresses, limbs may wilt, and a brown-to-black streak may form from rotting roots to the affected branches. The root system continues to deteriorate, often leading to the plant’s death.

Treatment: To Hollies under stress are more susceptible to root rot than healthy plants. Choose hollies suited to your local climate and soil conditions, and avoid introducing pathogens by purchasing plants with healthy roots and good foliage. Proper care, such as proper fertilization, moisture control, and good drainage (e.g., raised beds), can reduce disease risk. Japanese hollies are particularly prone to root rot in poorly drained soils. Fungicides can prevent infection but won’t cure it, follow label instructions.

Leafminers

Identify: The adult female lays eggs in young leaves through puncture wounds, which can cause leaf deformation. The eggs hatch in about four days, and the larvae tunnel between the leaf surfaces, leaving yellowish-brown trails that often widen into blotches. Their position inside the leaf makes them resistant to many insecticides. Natural predators include parasitic wasps and birds. American holly (I. opaca) cultivars are especially prone to leafminer damage.

Treatment: For light infestations, homeowners can handpick and remove affected leaves. Foliar systemic insecticides like acephate or spinosad, when used according to instructions, can be sprayed in May to control larvae in mines. Alternatively, a soil application of dinotefuran or imidacloprid can control larvae inside leaves. Apply these treatments in early spring for season-long protection. Dinotefuran acts faster than imidacloprid for quicker pest control. Always follow

label instructions and precautions.

Scale

Identify: Plants may show signs of water stress, with yellowing leaves followed by leaf drop. In cases of heavy infestation, plant health declines, leading to limb or branch death, and potentially the death of the plant. Inspect nearby woody plants for similar infestations.

Treatment: Light scale infestations can be scraped off or pruned out, with prunings disposed of immediately. For heavier infestations, apply a 2% horticultural oil spray in early spring to kill adults and eggs before new growth starts. Horticultural oil suffocates scales, offering effective control.

Southern Red Mite

Identify: Feeding symptoms include light yellow speckling on leaves, which may eventually turn bronze and drop. Severe infestations can lead to webs covering both leaf surfaces and branch tips. Southern red mite populations typically peak in spring and fall, with reduced activity during midsummer heat. Check for mites by inspecting the undersides of leaves in early spring or shaking a branch over white paper.

Treatment: Mites can be managed with regular strong water sprays. Insecticidal soap is effective when applied early, before populations grow too large. Homeowners can also use horticultural oil, bifenthrin, or acephate, following label instructions, to control southern red mite.

Root Rot

This fungus mainly impacts the root system, weakening plant vigor. Above-ground symptoms include stunted terminal growth, shortened internodes, and interveinal chlorosis. Infected roots are dark brown to black, typically starting at the tips. Plants with severe root rot damage often decline and die during dry periods.

Treatment: The fungus can persist in the soil for years, even without susceptible plants. Black root rot develops in conditions of high soil moisture and low temperatures. Fungicide drenches are not typically recommended for landscapes, as infected plants cannot be cured.